At Sea Bar -- a tiny, sleek restaurant that shares a parking lot with Trattoria Aroma -- uber chef Mike Andrzejewski sushi-fies atypical ingredients.

In this new addition to the Williamsville dining scene, there's an amazing BLT hand roll (cone-shaped sushi) with unagi (eel) and a Beef on Weck that uses both cooked beef and sashimi. There's nigiri with foie gras scallions and mango, too.

Andrzejewski -- the owner of the late Tsunamni -- calls this school of cooking "contemporary sushi," and I have this to say: It sure is.

Not that there isn't plenty of the classic, better-known fishy stuff if that's what you're after. The menu lists traditional nigiri -- salmon roe, tomago (egg), unagi -- as well as sashimi. But surprises lurk just about everywhere you look. (Full disclosure department: We were not on an anonymous basis here.)

You'll find that Beef on Weck under Maki Sushi -- and it's a wonder. There's a dab of cooked beef surrounded by rice and wrapped in a paper-thin slab of raw beef (think carpaccio), everything seasoned with -- what else? -- caraway and coarse salt. It's $12 for eight rolls, and it's delectable. But there is much more.

The evening's special soup ($3), for instance, was made from mushroom/soy broth with a hint of ginger and three different kinds of mushrooms. Also, loads of noodles. And -- here's the best part -- a couple of tempura-ed mushrooms on skewers. Just for kicks.

There were BBQ Salmon Rolls with smoked salmon and chili barbecue sauce and Tempura and Shrimp Rolls and, more conventionally, a Spider Roll (soft-shell crab and avocado).

And let us not forget the Crispy Avocado-composed Plate ($10), where the panko-crusted avocado was heaped atop sesame-mixed sashimi salad pepped up with a little lime juice and rice vinegar. Also on the menu: Volcano Salad -- sashimi and tobiko (flying fish roe), with crisp sesame noodles and fresh vegetables.

And there were totally surprising, un-Asian desserts, such as Ginger Peach and Double Chocolate Ganache Tarts. Since when has fusion been so much fun?

Sea Bar, as mentioned above, is small and simply decorated. There's a choice of table or sushi bar seating. If you eat at the bar, servers roam its perimeter to take your order and bring your plates.

And, here's something to think about: If one of your party is a non-sushi person, he can still eat with you. Because Sea Bar partners with Trattoria Aroma right next door, the different drummer can order from that Italian menu. The timing may be a bit off, perhaps, but the possibility is there. Next door, as a matter of fact, is where you can wait until seating is available and, more importantly, where those desserts came from. I repeat: Since when has fusion been so much fun? *

SEABAR 4 stars (Out of 4)
WHERE: 5235 Main St., Williamsville (204-5283).

Small, attractive sushi depot offers original ideas and comfortable seating. Wine and beer. Credit Cards: Master Card, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Beef on Weck Sushi
NEEDS WORK: All food is of excellent quality.
PRICE RANGE: Maki from $6; nigiri sushi from about $2.25 a piece.
SERVICE: Very good.
HOURS: From 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PARKING: In the lot.
RATINGS: Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News' visit -- including service, ambience, innovation and cost -- with greatest weight given to quality of the food.